A few years ago, in her exhaustive book on the Loire, Jacqueline Friedrich wrote, “The new Didier Dageneau? That’s easy; it’s his son, Benjamin. But Benjamin has a soul brother, Jonathan Pabiot. He took over the estate in Together – well, each at his own domaine – they are making the best, most probing, and most exciting Pouilly-Fumés.” Motorbike-lover Jonathan is the fifth generation of his family to farm here, and he and his wife Nina, originally from Hamburg, farm biodynamically - they are some of the first in the appellation to do so - and this comes from a blend of vineyards across the estate, planted on limestone soils. It’s named after their son. It’s a brilliantly versatile white, but try it with goats cheese to really blow your mind.