Overlooking the Loire river, with stunning châteaux dotted around the hillsides, the area of Savennières in Anjou is a hidden gem. This tiny appellation - just 140 hectares in total - enjoys world-wide fame thanks to its savoury and structured dry Chenin Blancs. And Domaine du Closel is one of the greatest producers here. It’s run by the irrepressible Evelyne de Pontbriand. Formerly a school teacher, no one knows the appellation better than her. They farm biodynamically, and the Clos du Papillon, from a vineyard that’s the shape of a butterfly’s wings, hence the name, is their top wine. This is spicy, complex, and delicious. A brilliant match for soft cheeses, it’s the sort of wine that has you reaching for glass after glass.